Article # 9... Details, Details......
Recently I picked up a wonderful sewing book
from 1943 titled The Complete Book of Sewing,
by Constance Talbot. While pursuing it’s
pages the section on detachable collars and
cuffs caught my attention. Until recent times
nearly every woman could boast a tidy collection
of these "wardrobe extenders",
they lent simple dresses, jackets and sweaters
endless versatility and extended their lives
by cutting down on laundering of the entire
garment. A low decollate could be made appropriate
for day with a tidy white collar and matching
cuffs. A simple black crepe dress sporting
a jaunty polka dot jabot might leave the
office and be worn out dancing by replacing
the jabot with a sequined ruffle or satin
charmeuse cowl. In the sewing book I was
amazed at the different kinds of detachable
pieces they gave instruction on. It certainly
went way beyond just collars and cuffs. The
book first suggested the dress have a "classic
and inconspicuous neckline" . Examples
were V necks, square necks, scooped and jewel.
Next came the parade of possibilities. First
listed were Jabots. Jabots were defined as
"straight ruffles finished on the edge
and either gathered or pleated into a band"
they could be either single or double. Full
or dainty.
Yokes were next. Detachable yokes were sort
of like decorative bibs. They tied or buttoned
to the garment and often were decorated with
tiny tucks or rows of lace. One lovely suggestion
was to make a detachable yoke out of transparent
crisp fabric which sounded ever so feminine!
The edges of the yokes could be scalloped
for even greater detail. Yokes were worn
on the outside of the dress.
The most unusual item featured was called
a Plastron. The plastron was similar to a
yoke but larger and came down to the waist
where it was held firm with a wide sash,
tie or belt. It too was worn outside the
dress. The suggested fabrics for plastrons
were pique, linen or lace and sheer metallic.
Festive, printed rayons and luxurious satins
were also a possibility.
Most of us are familiar with dickies and
this book illustrated many innovative styles.
A dickie looks like someone cut the top off
a blouse . They have collars and are worn
around the neck with the extra fabric tucked
down inside the garment. According to the
book they came in two categories "those
that button in front and those that button
behind". Dickies were a favorite because
they could fit into any open neckline.
"Vests" were similar to dickies
but were longer in front and were worn inside
the garment under the neck of a deep V sweater
or jacket. Both vests and dickies could be
made with any kind of collar fancy or plain.
With any manner of detail or embellishment.
Sometimes a simple self fabric loop was sewn
into the front of the neckline. In the center
or off to one side. A narrow scarf could
then be threaded through and hang down to
look like part of the dress. This gave any
plain dress endless variations. Simple but
very effective!
Matching fabric cuffs were also made..
My favorite illustration in the book was
a photo of a fashionable young lady in a
simple black dress. A dickie with a cowled
collar of leopard print fabric was tucked
into the neckline and the sleeves ended in
exaggerated fold back cuffs of the same print.
A clever addition was a large couture flower
pinned to the shoulder, made from the same
leopard fabric. Just these little additions
made chic the plainest of garments!