27. A LOOK AT THE EVOLUTION OF WOMEN'S FASHION
1920 -1980
PART 2- Fashion of the The 1940s
In our last article we looked at Fashion
from the Roaring 20s thru the Depression
era 1930s. We now turn our attention to the
next decade. The 1940's. As always the culture
of the day dictated the new directions in
Fashion. In 1939 Germany invaded Poland prompting
France and Britain to declare War. The United
States officially entered WW2 on Dec. 8,
1941. All focus was now on the war ... impacting
the garment industry on many levels.
In the 1930s economic restraints put limits
on fashion, in the early 40s war time jobs
boosted the economy but strained manufacturing
and resources. The manufacturing of war time
supplies required staggering amounts of raw
materials and shortages were a constant concern.
Wool and cotton was commandeered to supply
the tens of thousands of uniforms...silk
was needed for the manufacturing of parachutes,
neck scarves and even maps. Nylon was used
in parachutes as well as tires and so on.
In 1943 the set of regulations known as L-85
was put in place. Yardage restrictions were
applied to both men's and women's wear. The
circumference of a dress or skirt hem could
not exceed 72". Jackets could not be
more than 25" in length and pant legs
had to have a width of less than 19"...
All kinds of superfluous details using extra
fabric was banned. French cuffs, sashes and
scarves, extra pockets, wide lapels, multiple
pleats ... anything that wasted yardage.
The garment industry responded heroically
and took great care to limit the amount of
materials used in their garments. To show
their patriotism designers not only abided
by these restrictions, they often used even
less material than allowed.
The silhouette was narrow, skirts short and
the look austere. Although shoulder pads
had been around since the mid 1930s (think
Elsa Schiaparelli) the strong shoulder line
did not become mainstream until the beginning
of the 1940s. Fashions had remained stagnant
thorough the 30s and with the change in culture
brought on by the war women's tastes also
changed. The Hollywood designer Adrian is
attributed with popularizing the broad shoulder
and nipped in waist we associate with the
look of the 1940s. The femininity ot bias
and ruffles embraced during the Depression
served to lighten the hearts of women struggling
with economic woes. During war time though
the mood was serious, somber and determined.
So ... the clothing came to reflect that
mood. There are feminist historians who say
that the silhouette of the War time 40s was
one of strength and power. With many of the
men now fighting overseas the women at home
were drafted to perform traditional male
jobs. An army of women stepped up to the
plate to keep their country running and support
their men and women abroad. This sense of
pride and strength was translated into clothing
that projected that image. Strong shoulders,
trim waist, clean no nonsense lines. Modest
peplums were added to jackets and tops to
retain an element of femininity
Restrictions also influenced the palette
of fashion. Because some of the ingredients
used in commercial dyes were needed for the
war undyed wools called greige goods was
promoted. Tans and grays were popular. To
add interest plaids, stripes and tweed effects
were utilized. When dyes were used they tended
towards earthen or darker tones. Navy, black,
steel blue, eggplant, deep reds, gold and
forest green enjoyed popularity. The Rayon
industry was called on to fill commercial
fabric needs. Rayon was woven into gabardines
and crepes to substitute for wool and silk.
Clever contrasts in fabrics and colors with
collars, cuffs, yokes, fancy piping etc.
provided creativity in design.
The war isolated Paris and it's great couturiers.
On June 14, 1940 Germany marched into Paris
and the couture capitol of the world was
now under occupation. We know that during
the 1930s Paris couture lost it's exclusive
influence on US fashion, particularly daywear.
Due mainly to the high cost of Paris imports
women had already begun to turn to domestic
designers or were making their own clothing.
However, Paris style still had it's influence
particularly in evening wear. After the occupation
all contact with Paris was severed leaving
American style completely in the hands of
her domestic designers. Many ready to wear
designers had established names and thriving
businesses but after the occupation they
really came into their own. Names like Pauline
Trigêre, Harvey Berin, Ceil Chapman and Nettie
Rosenstein. The American couturier also gained
respect and prestige. Sophie of Saks, Muriel
King, Hattie Carnegie....
America was developing it's own fashion legacy.
The blossoming sportswear industry unique
to the States grew in leaps and bounds. Blue
jeans were popular with the college girls
worn for casual as well as sportswear. With
more young women in college and away from
home styles geared for the younger unmarried
woman became important. Less sophisticated
mature designs but not juvenile. Loungewear
and housecoats for the dorm were necessary
leading to a boom in this niche. Trousers
were worn in increasing numbers. Mix and
match separates became an essential way to
extend variety in the wardrobe. Blouses,
skirts, jackets, sweaters... were purchased
with this in mind. Separates eventually became
popular for women of all ages. Even for formal
attire. The gorgeous fluid evening skirt
and structured beaded jacket came into vogue.
Accessories during the war became terribly
important. Clothing design was minimal but
"girls will be girls" and the desire
for some feminine embellishment was strong.
Women grew their hair out to shoulder length
and styled it in long silky waves. Some women
still liked hats that were small and simple
but others preferred more whimsical confections
perched at a jaunty angle over pencil arched
eyebrows. The fancy hats during this time
are some of my favorites. The felts were
molded into interesting shapes and decoration
included veils, feathers and unusual trims
(millinery trim was not restricted). It interests
me how bold and creative some of these hats
were, how unrestricted women felt at expressing
themselves in this way. Fabric flower corsages
were worn to perk up tailored jackets and
plain dresses. Silk stockings virtually disappeared
from market and the cotton ones (in the words
of my aunt) were considered UUUGLY. Women
went bare legged or wore thin cotton ankle
socks. To simulate the look of stockings
they would often paint a line/seam up the
back of the leg. Costume jewelry remained
popular particularly impressive brooches,
dangle earrings and cuff bracelets. For the
more demure gal the choice might be simple
pearl beads and earrings. Head scarves were
all the rage becoming a wardrobe essential
for decades to come. Footwear and handbags
were hard hit by restrictions. Leather was
needed for the millions of boots worn out
by foot soldiers. Handbags were fashioned
from cloth, plastic, straw and exotic skins,
snake, crocodile, lizard etc. Leather shoes
tended to be sensible and sturdy. For a while
the leather colors available to make shoes
was restricted to black, white, navy and
three shades of brown. Again the desire for
fashionable attire had not gone away and
to work around these restrictions shoe designers
turned to alternative materials. For dress-up
occasions they designed some really amazing
bits of footwear. Cork and wood platform
soles and colorful cloth uppers. Sexy peep
toes were favorites.
Rayon dresses were popular many in black
and navy but patterns were also used. Polka
dots, stripes, little geometric prints and
stylized flowers. The one place a girl might
escape the seriousness of the time was at
community dances. The dresses worn had short
skirts (just below the knee) often cut with
slightly flared godets. Narrow belts and
semi-fitted bodices with side zippers or
snaps. Narrow 3/4 or cap sleeves were popular
as they required less fabric. Dresses usually
had modest necklines, the era of "skin"
was over.
On May 8, 1945, Germany surrendered. The
atomic bomb was dropped on Hiroshima and
Nagasaki and Japan surrendered on September
2, 1945. The Second World War came to an
end. The end of the war signaled profound
changes here at home and fashion again morphed
to reflect those changes.
Restrictions were lifted. Contact with Paris
was reestablished. The troops came home and
women were banished from traditional male
jobs. Each one of these elements had great
impact on the styles to come. Hemlines dropped
and skirts became fuller. Some designers
pulled out all stops. Fabric, fabric and
more fabric puffy sleeves, draped panels
and even bustles were presented. Not everyone
was happy with the new silhouette and many
women remained loyal to the simple lines
of before. For 15 years through the Depression
and then the war women had learned to live
with simple, frugal attire. Just as there
were those who were overjoyed to be done
with all that restriction there were others
who found comfort in the familiar. They dropped
their hemlines but refused to adopt the extravagant
full skirts and "frivolous" design
details. It took a number of years before
women as a whole accepted this new extreme.
Women missed their men and were thrilled
to have them home. Husbands, boyfriends and
potential boyfriends came home to women serious
to impress. Spike heels and ultra sheer stockings.
Wasp waist corsets and impossibly pointy
bras were being shown in the magazines. HOWEVER
the "nice girl" image was considered
as important as sex appeal so... accessories
were downsized, hairstyles were cut curly
and cute... ruffles and pastels started to
return. Closets slowly filled with pretty
shirtwaist dresses, full skirts, dainty blouses
and smart suits. Trousers all but disappeared
for a while. By 1947 Paris was back in strength
and Christian Dior is credited with making
it official. His "New Look" with
its nipped waist and bouffant skirts was
not really new but the timing was right.
Paris began to recover and resumed a healthy
reign in the world fashion but the American
scene was now thriving and strong. American
women had come to respect and enjoy the unique
style that was considered New York Fashion,
the freedom provided by smart American sportswear
as well as the glamour coming out of Hollywood.
With the economy back on track and getting
better there appeared to be room for it all.
During this decade a World war began and
ended. Gender roles expanded then suddenly
narrowed. We saw Paris Couture cut off from
the world stimulating the strong emergence
of American designers. Paris returned but
would never again have unchallenged influence
on Western style. Frugal to Fancy...War to
Peace the 1940s will always be considered
a pivotal decade.