Part 5 - Fashion of the 1970s
The 1960s burned bright and furious with social and cultural changes exploding in a multitude of directions. The culture of youth dominated and nothing seemed impossible. Fashion became a kaleidoscope of different styles reflecting each individual trend.
The revolutionary ideas and movements of the 1960s continued into the 1970s. Civil rights, antiwar sentiment, school integration, equal rights for women even a budding voice for gay rights. Much of the public had heard the message and began demanding change. If the 1960s are viewed as the decade of Love and Peace, the 1970s have a more militant tone. After the assassination of Martin Luther King in 1968 the mood of the nation shifted. On May 4th 1970 at Kent State University, four students were shot and killed by Ohio National Guardsmen attempting to stem the antiwar demonstrations. The push for social change took on a harder edge and so did fashion.
The culture of youth was growing up and although many of the 1960s fashion trends continued into the 70s the looks became less childlike and playful and more serious. Feminism had a tremendous influence on style. Many women were staying in the work force even after having children and were pursuing careers. With greater numbers of women out of the home and either in college or on the job, career wear was a growing segment of the garment industry. Although pants had become an established mode of casual or sports dress, slacks did not become a wardrobe staple for women until the 1970s. Matching pantsuits were now acceptable work attire. Split skirts and gaucho pants were also popular. The woman's tailored blazer became the uniform of the decade. Coordinated with either skirts or slacks virtually every women considered it a wardrobe
essential.
Dressing in separates particularly pants was now more common than wearing dresses. Although the day dress did not completely loose favor it began to be reserved for more important occasions. In the 1970s most public schools had abandoned the required dress code prohibiting girls from wearing pants as did many work places.
A number of designers were leaders in this new tailored mode of dress. Yves Saint Laurent in Paris, Valentino in Italy and Calvin Klein here in the States.
By the 70s popular fashion was officially fractured into any number of overlapping styles. Ethnic and bohemian looks were mass produced in countless ways. Jeans became a staple worn with everything from army jackets to sequined halter tops. Skirt length remained flexible although the mini was preferred for the first half of the decade. An interest in vintage clothing blossomed in the 1970s :) and little vintage boutiques started springing up. The 1930s and 40s styles were popular as well as Victorian, renaissance and empire. Designers began to look to these vintage styles for inspiration and labels like Gunne Sax, Young Edwardian and Foxy Lady produced wonderful retro inspired clothing. Textile designers in the 70s also drew inspiration from fabrics of the past. Art nouveau, deco and even old calicos were revived and
revised.
The silhouette for work or school wear in the 1970s echoed that of the 1940s. Clean and simple with slightly defined shoulder and trim waist. A-line skirt or slim hip flared trousers. Dresses became softer and more fluid and jersey was the preferred fabric. Fluid jerseys in Polyester, qiana nylon, cotton and silk. Dianne Von Furstenberg with her little wrap jersey dresses and of course Halston. An interest in natural fibers began to emerge with the new Ecology movement. Towards the middle of the decade cottons, silks and linens were in demand. The wild often psychedelic colors and prints of the 1960s were still strong at the beginning of the decade but started to be replaced by softer and more earthy tones plum, cranberry, taupe, dusty rose, teal.... Bright nursery colors were replaced by pale pastels. Neutrals gained in popularity bone and beige, cream,
khaki......
Knits were all the rage during much of the 1970s. Fabulous knitwear designs by Missoni, Sonyia Rykiel and Laura Biagiotti. Soon fashionable knitwear was being produced for every budget. Tops and skirts, dresses and even suits. Colors and stitches were combined in creative ways producing some of the most innovative knits of the 20th century.
Polyester double knits were rampant, seducing the consumer with their wrinkle free, wash and wear qualities. I swear a herd of cattle could stampede over a polyester double knit garment and it would wash up to look as good as new.
We certainly can't talk about the 70s without including the Disco scene! Halter tops, platform shoes and hot pants.... second skin Lycra pants with butterfly sequin tops.... AND slick body hugging jumpsuits. The muted colors of day were replaced by bright colors, metallics and animal prints at night. Disco fashions for both men and women were flamboyant and flashy.
By the time the disco era came around girdles and constrictive foundation garments were abandoned by all but the matrons. Clothing tended to fit closely to the body and bras and panties were but little wisps compared to the under-armor of the prior decades. For the young and well preserved this was no problem... for everyone else there were Kaftans. OK, I exaggerate some here but it was a very body conscious time.
There was a marked increase in lower budget ready made clothing in the 1970s. By 1974 the US economy was experiencing it's worse recession in 40 years. The public was watching their pennies but they still wanted to consume. Manufacturers found themselves under great pressure to produce at the lowest cost possible. This was exacerbated by growing overseas production. Inexpensive fabric and minimal construction are common in 1970s clothing. During the economic depression of the 1930s the consumer demanded well made clothing that would last. Not so in the 70s. Quality was sacrificed for quantity and lower price.
Designer couture took a dramatic turn during the later 1960s starting in 1966 when Yves Saint Laurent became the first couturier to open a ready to wear shop. Dior followed suit in 1967 with their Miss Dior line and one by one many of the major houses followed suit. By the mid 1970s even the house of Channel had their own ready to wear collection. All of this sparking a frenzy for designer labels which we still see today.
For me the 70s is the hardest decade to pin down. There were so many movements in popular fashion, so much change in the business of fashion. I hate to sum it up with generalizations. I suppose I can safely say it was a decade that celebrated freedom in dress, applauded individual style and challenged conformity.
----------------------------
Return to table of contents
