I am fond of buttons and even have a small “collection” of my own. Like most vintage dealers I keep a stock of everyday vintage buttons for replacement on inventory. Amongst the boxes and jars of old buttons I come across at the flea markets have been some extra-pretty ones that I just kept away for myself. That’s my collection. I do know a little about their history and am pretty good at recognizing the proper era but I’ve never really had the “passion” nor certainly the knowledge that these ladies do. However, just recently, on a whim I purchased a lot of 19th century metal buttons with figural themes. I am enchanted by their perfect minuscule details. They are like tiny pieces of relief sculpture. Could this be the beginning of a new obsession?
Although archaeologists have found button like objects dating from pre-history actual buttons came somewhat later. True buttons have been found in China dating back to around 2000BC. It wasn't until The 11th century AD that they made their debut in Europe.The first samples came back from the East after the Crusades. European royalty were charmed by these novel creations and quickly developed an appetite. Artisans lost no time in seizing the opportunity and the first button makers guild was founded in France around 1250AD. Before this time Western clothing was worn draped, wrapped or pinned in place. The first European buttons were used as decorative items and very expensive. They were created from such precious materials as silver and gold, gems and ivory and carved shell. In the beginning only the royals and aristocracy could afford them. The general population later began using wood, horn, bone and cloth buttons. Initially loops were used to fasten. It was not until the early
Renaissance years that the buttonhole was invented.
Another important invention brought back from the East after the Crusades was the fabric scissor. Until then a primitive type of shear was used to cut cloth. Garments were loose not fitted. These new scissors allowed for fabric to be more accurately cut and pieced together. By the 1600s men’s clothing in particular was being shaped to fit the body and buttons were now being used for closures. Women’s style remained more flowing and continued to use lacings ties and hooks to secure them. During the 1700s artisans of all kind had begun creating lavish buttons sometimes as a sideline to their main business. The majority of button use was limited to men’s clothing but this did not in any way hamper their burgeoning demand.
By now the European aristocratic male had developed a lust for opulent and even gaudy attire. Buttons became ever larger and more ornate. Engraved metals… carved wood, ivory or mother of pearl… hand painted porcelains… fine silk work… precious gems…. All beautifully crafted into small works of art. The finest buttons were considered to be from France but the industry blossomed all over Europe. From this time up until the 1860s is seen as the Golden Age of the Button.
Beautiful examples have been preserved and can be found in museums. They are rare on the collectors market and highly prized.
Until the mid 1800s women still generally wore buttons as decoration. That changed in the latter half of the century. Functional buttons “pour la femme” became the vogue after the 1860s and demand skyrocketed. Fashion buttons had become smaller but remained intricate. The industrial revolution stormed in and by the end of the 1800s the majority of buttons were being mass-produced. Most were simple and purely functional but there was still some demand for fancy buttons. Steel was cut to sparkle like diamonds. Glass pastes made to imitate every type of gem. Machines were created to stamp out and mold buttons from all types of materials. Porcelain could be lithographed with images and was no longer hand painted. Science also brought new inventions so along with traditional materials buttons were being made from celluloid, vulcanized rubber and later Bakelite and acrylic.
The days of the artisans button was essentially over but creativity in the field remained. The 20th century saw endless varieties of decorative buttons. Deco creations from the 20s and 30s. Silly and whimsical figurals during the 30s and 40s. Rhinestone encrusted giants from the 50s and 60s. To name a very few.
Button collecting started here in America. I was unable to discover the exact time but it appears to have been during the 1930s. It became such a popular pass time that the National Button Society was founded in 1938. Buttons have been avidly collected by a dedicated following since that time. It probably started off as an inexpensive hobby during the Great Depression and although some antique buttons command huge prices today most collectable buttons are still surprisingly affordable. Lovely ornate Victorian buttons can still be found for anywhere from $5 to $30. Beautifully carved mother of pearl in the same price range. Sweet little novelty buttons from the 1930s and 40s even less. Collections can be highly specialized Example… handkerchief corner buttons from the first half of the 19th century to whatever might catch the collectors fancy.
As I sat to write this little article on buttons the depth and breadth of information available overwhelmed me. There is so much to learn about these tiny objects of fashion. Button collectors are a passionate bunch from the historical experts to the excited rookies. I think I finally understand why. Buttons can be gorgeous, interesting, fun and informative and I am feeling the itch to know more.
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