ARTICLE # 21 - Creative Costuming-October 2005

Halloween is just around the corner and I am beginning to receive requests for items to wear as costume. Common requests are 1920s dresses or Victorian pieces. Customers are are often dismayed at the high prices, tiny sizes and lack of availability when it comes to these early vintage pieces. The good news is that with a bit of ingenuity you can achieve the look you want with retro-look garments and accessories.
For a great Victorian look find a good 1970s or 80s white lace blouse with high lace collar. Can't find a lace blouse? Just wear a fitted white blouse and wrap a lace triangle around the neck. Tie a black velvet ribbon at the throat or over the lace and pin with a cameo or filigree brooch. A long A-line black or brown skirt to the floor will work well. You can create a cummerbund by wrapping a length of satin or taffeta around the waist and pin in place. Hats are easy to mimic from the Victorian era. Find a wide brim straw hat (there were lots done in the 1970s) and add feather plumes and flowers. A wide gathered sash around the crown in satin, faille or taffeta is a must. Remember more is better when it comes to embellishing a "Victorian hat". Genuine high top, laced boots from this time are very costly and often tiny in size. During the 1980s they copied this look and you
might find them in thrift stores or online auctions. Add lace to the edge of an old umbrella for a parasol. Create a shawl from a torn lace table cloth by cutting it into a triangle and sewing on a lace edge. If you have decent sewing skills create a drawstring bag out of lace or brocade fabric and hang a curtain tassel from the bottom. Dangling filigree earring will complete the look!

The 20s Flapper is another popular costume favorite. Genuine Twenties dresses are rare and fragile. The silks often were weighted with mercury to give them drape and luster. Over the years the mercury caused the fabric to weaken and deteriorate. These dresses belong in collections and are not really suitable for costume. Fortunately the dropped waist 20s look has been duplicated a lot especially in the 1980s. The trick here is to find a dropped waist dress with very little detail. If there are shoulder pads remove them. Create a hip wrap out of a long narrow piece of satin or chiffon fabric. Tie it off to the side and pin it at the hips so it does not fall down. Let the ends of the hip wrap trail past the hem of the dress. You can pin a rose or large broach for embellishment. You can also take a simple, sleeveless sheath dress and sew or hot glue fringe around the bottom half starting
below the hip. There are two good choices for head wear. You can simply tie a ribbon around the forehead. In the center front pin a few feathers to stand up straight and cover with something sparkly. A rhinestone brooch works well here. 1920s cloche hats are expensive but there are tons of cloche style hats out there from the 60s and 70s, much more affordable. Lots of 60s hats were made to perch up high on the head but if you remove the sizing ribbon inside, steam the hat and stretch it you can pull it down on the face to look like a cloche. I have a hat tips section on the website which tells you how to stretch a hat at home. here is the link HAT TIPS . Any kind of T-strap shoe that is not overly chunky will do just great as footwear. A long strand of beads and a few "spit curls" and you are ready to Charleston the night
away!

The slinky bias dresses of the 1930s evoke Americas love of the silver screen during those hard years. You can still find 30s bias dresses which are wearable but costly. There was a fling during the 80s and again in the 90s with the glamorous bias look. These copy cat dresses are occasionally in thrift stores and online auctions. They may have shoulder pads which will need to be removed. Another trick is to find a long, silky bias cut night gown and add maribou trim around the neck and hem. Victorias Secret has been making them for years and they often look just like the real thing. These you can find second hand, fairly easily or see what they have new (although they may be expensive just for costume). Add satin pumps and a long strand of pearls. Pancake makeup with penciled eyebrows and pouty red lips will add just the right finishing
touch.

The 1940s war years look can be VERY easily achieved with more contemporary clothing. The key here is padded shoulders, nipped waist and A-line skirt just a few inches below the knee. This is a look that was copied all through the later 70s. I would steer clear of the over exaggerated shoulder look of the 80s. The 40s look was more tailored and used less fabric. Once you have the silhouette (dress OR suit) the accessories will really make the outfit. Hats and gloves were extremely important. You do not have to use genuine 40s hats. The small pill box hats done in the 50s and 60s and also in the 80s can be worn if you position them right. Add a bow, brooch or feather to the hat, they loved embellishment. The key here is to position the hat at a jaunty angle low on the forehead. You will need to bobby pin in place. Seamed stockings were a staple but can be hard to find and fussy to wear.
Here is a great trick. Draw a thin line up the back of the leg (in washable marker) to simulate the seam and wear regular nude stockings. Ankle strap, peep toe shoes are perfect for the 40s look. Today they are making wonderful retro-40s shoes so you should have no trouble finding a pair. Big chunky clip on earrings and matching multistrand, bead necklace were popular jewelry items as well as large brooches.

Finally the most popular request I get is for the 1950s sock hop look. You know, poodle skirt and saddle shoes. There are a ton of reproduction poodle skirts available and they are not expensive. The problem is the felt they use is cheap and hangs limply. You really need a sturdy crinoline to get it to look right. You can make a great circle skirt very easily out of heavier felt and it will look more authentic. Find a circle skirt pattern (any good fabric store should have one) and ask them for a good quality felt, not craft felt. You can make the poodle applique out felt as well and glue a few rhinestones around the collar. You will also want to have the poodles leash swoop up and over to the opposite side of the skirt. This can be done by gluing cord or even drawn with fabric marker. If you are lucky enough to find a plain swing skirt just trim with a hand made felt cutout poodle,
add a petticoat and you will be fine.Can't find saddle shoes? The look will be just as authentic if you wear old fashioned tennis shoes instead (in white of course) and little bobby socks. Wear a sweater set, plain color camp shirt or knit shell for the top and either tie a kerchief around the neck or around a high ponytail.
Happy Halloween to all!

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