Article # 1...Vintage Sizing, unraveling
the mystery!
Whether you are new to vintage or a seasoned
collector, the issue of Vintage sizing can
be confusing as well as frustrating. U.S.
Standards for sizing in the garment industry
have changed drastically over the past 80
years. In the 1940s a typical U.S. size12
dress would be equivalent to a much smaller
modern size! I have a 1940s pattern which
lists a size 12 as having a 30" Bust,
25" Waist and 33" Hip. Good grief
that isn’t even a size 4 today! Not only
have sizes changed but the standard proportions
have changed as well. The industry is constantly
re-inventing size to reflect and appeal to
the modern consumer. An interesting article
to read is one written in 1996 about retooling
the industry standards, the study was funded
by the Institute for Standards Research (cut
and paste this url to read http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/general/resrpt1996/retool_size.html
)
Some changes of note in vintage size and
proportions are as follows. The raising and
lowering of bustline. A 1930s dress has a
much lower bustine than say one from the1950s.
Also the waistline in vintage clothing is
very small in proportion to the rest of the
garment. Around the mid 1980s the waistline
began to relax a bit. Today that figure is
even more relaxed. Shoulders and armscyes
are now more roomy than before. A lot of
my customers comment on how snug the sleeves
feel on a vintage dress, particularly the
1950s and again the 1970s. Some folks attribute
this to the exercise women do today. That
may be a factor but it was also the style
to wear snug fitting clothing. In the 1950s
Charles James created one gown in which a
woman could barely raise her arms. Interestingly
the female designers tended to create clothing
that was more comfortable (ex. Ceil Chapman)
but then that would be another article!
With all this confusion it can be a bit
difficult to determine if a vintage garment
will fit. The first rule is to know your
measurements and any figure characters you
have (broad shoulders, higher waist, longer
torso etc.) Bust, waist and hips are the
3 most important measurements but it also
helps to know your shoulder measurement,
waist to knee and neck to waist. I am including
link to our page on measuring the body click here
A good Vintage website should provide accurate
measurements and be able to answer fitting
questions about a garment. On my site I will
mention if a dress would be best on a taller
person or if the waistline is unusually low
or high. Don’t be afraid to ask questions.
Another key to perfect vintage fit is to
not be afraid of a little alteration now
and again. Many vintage pieces have lots
of room for alteration, they were made that
way. I had a young lady purchase the gown
of her dreams only to find the waist was
too tight. She sadly e-mailed me saying she
needed to return it. I knew she adored the
dress so I suggested she take it to the tailor
to ask about alteration. Long story short,
the tailor easily fit the dress to her for
a modest fee and the girl was thrilled. A
good Vintage dealer should also be able to
tell you about a garments alteration potential,
what can and cannot be done.
Vintage size is certainly a confusing issue
but the mystery can be solved with a few
measurements and a knowledgeable dealer to
help you!