In our last newsletter we talked about recognizing fine fabrics. For our next subject let us learn a bit about clothing construction and how it has changed over the years. There are three key elements to consider CUT, CONSTRUCTION and FINISH.
The actual making of a garment begins with cutting the fabric. This may not sound that important but it is crucial that a garment be cut correctly. Have you ever had a garment whose seams, sleeves or collars want to twist or that hang crooked? Most of us have. This can be caused by cutting the fabric OFF GRAIN. First I need to define grain. Grain is the direction in which the threads composing the fabric run. For a garment to fall correctly the fabric must start with all threads at perfect right angles. The garment pieces should then be cut with the grain of each piece falling perpendicular to the ground OR in the case of bias, on the True Bias (think diagonal crosshatch). In the industry, mass produced garments are (and have been for years) cut in great multiples. The fabric is stacked in many layers, the pattern (marker) is then placed on top and the cutting done either by a straight knife which saws through the layers or with a computerized laser. All layers must be “spread” properly and the pattern pieces must be in line with the grain of the fabric. Seldom do I come across vintage clothing that is cut off grain but when I was in the sewing business my customers often brought me modern garments (usually inexpensive pieces) to “fix” because they did not hang properly. Sadly once a garment is cut off grain nothing can be done to change that. To check for on grain garments old or new make sure that the seams fall straight (side seams and sleeves are the most obvious). A garment cut off grain will tend to twist off center. Also make sure there is no rippling or puckering to the fabric at the seams. Collars should roll smoothly fall symmetrically.
Construction is next. The seams of a well constructed garment should have short even stitches. Today cheap garments are often put together hastily by lengthening the stitches used. Of course this creates a weak seam that will not hold up under washing and wearing.
A generous seam allowance is a must in quality construction. Unfortunately modern clothing is usually constructed with an overlock machine. this cuts the seam and finishes it with stitching along the raw edge all in one leaving no usable seam allowance. Vintage garments before the 1970s on the other hand usually were constructed with enough seam allowance to accommodate alteration. Todays customer may see a raw edge on a seam as sloppy work. It is actually more desirable to leave the seams unfinished. This allows the seams to be pressed open which creates a much smoother look AND it allows for alteration.
Buttons used to be sewn on by hand but today they are usually done by machine which easily unravels causing the button to fall off. The same applies to hook and eyes as well as snaps. AND we all know about modern machine stitched hems. Let the thread come loose in one place and a good tug brings down the entire hem!
Finally comes the finish work on a garment. To save money many finishing and tailoring steps are now compromised or eliminated from garment construction. Have you ever had a neck or armhole facing that is determined to roll out? If the facing is too skimpy or hasn’t been properly understitched that’s what happens. Sure you can press it into place each time you launder it but it SHOULD stay put on it’s own. Collars and cuffs used to be nicely top stitched so they held their shape and seams were pressed open so they were smooth. Hems were finished with hem lace or tape and waistlines were stayed with ribbon or reinforced with extra stitching. Crotchlines were also double stitched for strength as were underarms. Linings in coats and jackets used to be stitched in place at the armhole so fabric was less stressed with movement, allowing the lining to last longer. So many of todays garments look fine on the hanger but because they have not been properly finished they loose their shape after being used for just a short time. On the other hand I have jackets from the 1940s that look as crisp and smart as the day they were made.
This is not to stand in judgement of today’s garment industry. It is a tough and highly competitive business to be in. The modern consumer wants many choices at rock bottom prices. Quality costs. Did you know that in the 1940s a GOOD dress cost the average of a weeks pay? Buying vintage is simply a great way to own exceptionally beautiful well made clothing at affordable prices.
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